Les conservateurs en cosmétique

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L’objectif de la marque Natéclo est de fournir le maximum d’informations aux femmes (et aux hommes) qui s’intéressent à la composition des produits cosmétiques qu’elles ou ils veulent utiliser. Régulièrement, nous publierons des articles sur un ingrédient ou sur une famille d’ingrédients afin de vous permettre d’en savoir plus et de pouvoir les détecter plus facilement dans les compositions. Libre à vous ensuite de choisir vos produits en toute conscience. Nous parlerons des ingrédients cosmétiques à éviter mais également des bons ingrédients à favoriser. Bonne lecture à tou(te)s !

Les conservateurs synthétiques

Leurs noms INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients = nomenclature internationale des ingrédients cosmétiques, il s’agit des noms en anglais ou en latin des ingrédients que chaque marque doit afficher sur les étiquettes de ses produits)

Les parabènes : methylparaben, ethylparaben,  propylparaben, butylparaben … Tout ce qui contient ou finit en „paraben“

Phenoxyethanol, Triclosan, Benzophenone, Cetrimonium bromide…

BHA (Butylated HydroxyAnisole), BHT (Butyl HydroxyToluene), MIT (Methylisothiazolinone), MCIT (methylchloroisothiazolinone) …

Leur origine : synthétique / naturelle

Tous ces conservateurs sont d’origine synthétique. Certains sont soupçonnés d’être irritants, allergisants ou perturbateurs endocriniens. Des preuves ont été apportées pour certains, pour d’autres, le doute plane encore. Un conseil, évitons les pour ne pas prendre de risque.

Leur rôle

La grande majorité des produits cosmétiques présents sur le marché sont des émulsions, c’est-à-dire un mélange d’eau et de corps gras. L’eau est donc l’ingrédient principal de la plupart des cosmétiques, qui en contient entre 60 et 80%.

Or l’eau est le lieu de prédilection des bactéries et des champignons. Ils peuvent alors se développer et contaminer le produit cosmétique que l’on est censé s’appliquer sur le corps … Charmant ! Pour résoudre ce problème, les industriels utilisent des conservateurs synthétiques, antimicrobiens (qui lutte contre les bactéries) et antifongiques (qui lutte contre les champignons), pour stabiliser les formules. Ils sont aussi utilisés pour stabiliser le produit niveau texture, odeur, couleur …

Le problème

Certains conservateurs sont jugés irritants ou allergisants, car ils ne font pas la différence entre les bonnes et les mauvaises bactéries : ils attaquent alors la flore microbienne de notre peau qui nous est indispensable, et nous ressentons une irritation, qui peut parfois aller plus loin, comme une réaction allergique ou de l’eczéma.

Plus grave encore, certains sont suspectés d’être des perturbateurs endocriniens, c’est-à-dire qu’ils sont suspectés de favoriser des cancers hormonaux-dépendants (cancer du sein, de l’utérus, de la prostate et des testicules) et d’avoir un effet néfaste sur la fertilité.

Ces substances on les respire, on les mange, on les boit … Évitons en plus de nous en étaler sur tout le corps !

Conclusion

Il existe des formules dites « sans conservateur ». Ceci est possible avec un packaging spécial, comme un flacon airless : il s’agit d’un flacon sans air, la formule est donc protégée des effets néfastes de l’air et cela limite le développement de bactéries ou champignons. C’est également possible dans le cas de produits huileux qui ne contiennent pas d’eau. Malheureusement, dans la majorité des cas, on trouve des conservateurs. Les plus sûrs sont ceux autorisés par les labels bios : Benzoic acid et ses sels, Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid et ses sels, Salicylic acid et ses sels, Sorbic acid et ses sels. Pensez toujours à lire la liste des ingrédients des produits que vous achetez !

Chloé

Source : https://www.cosmebio.org/fr/nos-dossiers/2018-01-conservateurs-cosmetiques-bio-cosmebio/

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